Weekend in La Spezia

A modest 17th-century church in the old fishermen's quarter. Baroque stucco inside, a painted wooden crucifix, and a quiet courtyard. No entry fee and rarely crowded.

Tip: It's on a small lane off Via del Prione. Look for the bell tower poking above the drying laundry. Combo walk: visit here, then head up the steps to the castle.

The main waterfront promenade, right at the edge of the historic centre. Paved, palm-lined, with benches and a view of the harbour and mountains. No entry fee – it's just a public

Tip: Take coffee at Bar Il Molo on the corner – they do a decent espresso for €1.20. Best light for photos is early morning before the cruise crowds appear.

A coastal nature reserve stretching along the Gulf of Poets from La Spezia to Porto Venere. Clifftop paths give you proper sea views and Mediterranean scrub. No entry fee, just transport needed to get

Tip: Take the ferry from La Spezia to Porto Venere (cheap, runs regularly) then walk back along the coastal trail. It's about 6km, decently marked, and saves you backtracking.

12th-century castle on the hill above the old town, housing a small archaeological museum. Views over the rooftops to the gulf. Entry costs about 5 euros.

Tip: Walk up via the Salita della Cittadella—steep but cuter than the road. Skip the museum if you're cash-strapped; the ramparts and view alone justify the ticket.

Naval technical museum inside the military arsenal. Packed with ship models, full-sized launches, and naval engineering displays spanning centuries. Five euros entry – you won't get this for less anyw

Tip: Photography is partly restricted inside, but the outdoor collection of anchors and propellers is fair game. Go on a weekday morning to avoid school groups.