Weekend in Jammu

A sprawling temple complex with seven shrines dedicated to Lord Rama. The inner walls are covered in ancient murals and gold leaf work.

Tip: Visit early morning before 8am to avoid queues and see the priests performing the aarti up close. Photography inside the main shrine is prohibited.

The former royal residence of the Dogra dynasty, this 19th-century palace complex mixes Rajasthani, Mughal and European architectural styles. The main building is closed for restor

Tip: Go to the Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace) section behind the main building – it's unrestored but eerily beautiful. Allow 45 minutes. Entry is free, but a small donation to the caretaker is appreciated.

A 16th-century fort built by Raja Bahulochan on a rocky outcrop above the Tawi River. Inside the fort is a small temple; outside, a well-maintained terraced garden with fountains.

Tip: The garden is free and open until dusk. Go late afternoon when the light is golden and the garden is less crowded. The real view is from the fort's south wall – you can see the whole city spread out below.

A natural cave temple on the banks of the Tawi, dedicated to Lord Shiva. It consists of three chambers carved into the rock, with a natural spring inside.

Tip: Take a shared auto from Raghunath Bazaar (20 rupees). The cave is small, so combine it with a visit to the nearby Bahu Fort. Wear sturdy shoes – the steps down to the cave are uneven and can be slippery. No photography allowed inside the innermost chamber.

A red sandstone palace turned museum overlooking the Tawi River. Exhibits include royal portraits, hunting trophies and a fine collection of Pahari miniature paintings.

Tip: The entry fee is 20 rupees for Indians, 100 for foreigners – one of the cheapest palace museums in India. Go on a weekday to have the galleries almost to yourself. The café on the terrace has decent chai for 10 rupees.