Weekend in Ascoli Piceno

The city's main cathedral, built on a Roman site. The 15th-century Gothic portal is the standout feature. Inside, a silver altarpiece by Carlo Crivelli (locked behind glass).

Tip: The crypt (free) contains the remains of Saint Emidio. It's dark and very quiet. Mass is at 8am and 6pm—if you attend, you'll see locals, not tourists.

A small but well-kept public park at the edge of the historic centre, with benches, pines, and views over the Tronto river. Local families picnic here on weekends.

Tip: Bring your own water—no fountains inside. The best bench is at the far end, facing west. In summer, the park stays open until 9pm but is loveliest in late afternoon.

A 14th-century fortress on a hill above the town, renovated in the 16th century by Pope Pius IV. Offers panoramic views over the Castellana valley and the old town.

Tip: Walk up the Salita della Fortezza (steep but short) rather than following the road loop. The views are best just before sunset. No facilities on site.

The main square, considered one of Italy's finest Renaissance piazzas. Ringed by cafes and the Palazzo dei Capitani. The travertine paving and loggia are the main draw.

Tip: Go at dusk when the light hits the stone; the crowds thin out and the square feels vast. Aperitivo at Caffè Meletti costs about €8 but includes snacks.

A former papal paper mill turned into a museum complex. Exhibits include traditional papermaking, a printing press, and archaeological finds from Ascoli's Roman theatre.

Tip: Free on the first Sunday of each month (state museum rule). Otherwise €5. The paper-making demo happens at 11am and 3pm—time your visit. Only takes cash.