Weekend in Xiva

The turquoise-domed mausoleum of the 14th-century poet and wrestler. The interior is ticketed, but you can see the entire distinctive dome and outer blue-tiled walls from the surro

Tip: The dome's tilework is best viewed from the adjacent roof terrace of the souvenir shop at the northeast corner—no purchase needed. Ask politely at the shop; they're used to it.

The courtyard of the 10th-century Friday mosque. The main prayer hall costs entry, but the quiet, tree-lined courtyard with carved wooden doorways is open and free to wander.

Tip: Sit on the low stone wall by the southern entrance—locals often stop here for tea. Avoid noon heat; the courtyard has little shade.

The exterior gardens and outer courtyards of the 19th-century summer palace. You can see the intricately tiled front facade and walk around the perimeter without a ticket.

Tip: The ticket for inside includes the harem and throne room, but if you're short on cash, the best tile work is on the main entrance arch—visible from outside. Go early before the tour groups arrive.

A working market just outside the west gate where locals buy bread, spices, dried fruit and sweets. No entry fee, and you can browse without buying. Rooftop tea stalls cost about 2,000 som.

Tip: Try the fresh non bread from the tandoor ovens—it costs around 1,000 som. Haggling is expected for dried apricots, but not for bread. Women often wear headscarves here; it's respectful to do the same.

The massive sun-baked mud-brick walls that encircle the inner city. You can walk along parts of them for free, with views over the old town and the surrounding desert landscape.

Tip: Go at sunset when the light turns the bricks a deep ochre. The west gate (West Darvoza) is usually open and gives direct access to the rampart path.