Weekend in Rijeka

Rijeka’s 18th-century clock tower, sitting at the main square (Korzo). You can climb the interior for a view of the city. The tower survived earthquakes and bombing but lost its or

Tip: Climb is only about 30 steps to the first level; the view is decent but not spectacular – do it for the history, not panoramas. The bell rings every hour, directly overhead.

A 330-metre-long WWII bomb shelter carved into the hill beneath the old town. Cool, dark, and echoing – you walk through five interconnected tunnels that served as protection for u

Tip: Bring a jacket; the tunnel stays around 14°C even in summer. The entrance is almost unmarked, behind the flashy shopping centre near Jadranski Trg.

A small, quiet park at the foot of the Trsat hill, with a pond, old trees, and benches. It was created in the 1890s as a botanical garden and still has some labelled plants. Local kids feed the ducks

Tip: It's a good spot for a picnic – buy burek and yoghurt from a nearby bakery. Hardly any tourists come here, so it's a real local slice of calm, five minutes from the Korzo bustle.

The main open-air market behind the old town, held daily but busiest on Saturday mornings. Stalls sell local produce, flowers, cheese, cured meats, and second-hand clothes. The attached fish market bu

Tip: Go before 10am for the best fruit. Try the smoked cheese (škripavac) from the island of Krk. Cash only – there's an ATM just outside the market but queues can be long.

Medieval fortress on a hill overlooking Rijeka. You reach it via a long staircase (the Petar Kružić Stairway) with 538 steps, which is an attraction in itself. The castle has a café and a tiny open-ai

Tip: Go late afternoon for the best light over the city and the sea. The climb is steep; take a bus (line 1, 1a or 1b) up from the centre to save your legs.