Weekend in Pasikudah

A small, simply painted Catholic church dating from the 1930s. White walls, blue trim, wooden pews. The annual feast in early August attracts hundreds of locals, but most weeks it'

Tip: The caretaker, Mr Samy, lives in the cottage behind. If he sees you, he'll unlock the bell tower — the view over the coconut palms to the sea is worth the climb. No fixed hours; just knock.

A broad, shallow bay of calm turquoise water. The sand is soft and the gentle slope means you can walk out metres without the water passing your waist. Lifeguards patrol the main s

Tip: Go early, before 8am, to see fishermen hauling their nets on the northern end. Most hotels claim the central beach as private, but the entire coastline is legally public — walk above the high-tide line.

A small, daily morning market where locals buy fresh produce: jackfruit, king coconuts, fish straight from the night boats and homemade jaggery. Five or six stalls under a tin roof, plus a few women s

Tip: Arrive by 7am for the best fish — they're usually sold out by 8.30. Don't buy the airport-style souvenir coconuts; buy a king coconut and drink it there, 40 LKR. The chilli-mango lady on the east corner is famous for her home-made sambol.

The quieter western neighbour of Pasikudah, separated by a small headland. Same flat, crystal water, but fewer sun loungers and no hotels directly on the sand. A few local fishermen repair nets under

Tip: Walk along the shore from Pasikudah at low tide — it takes 25 minutes and you'll spot hermit crabs and small starfish. Bring your own water; no shops on this stretch.

A shallow, mangrove-fringed lagoon behind the beach strip. Home to kingfishers, monitor lizards and occasional water buffalo. The water is brackish and much warmer than the sea.

Tip: Best at sunset — walk the dirt track behind the Coconut Lagoon resort. Don't swim; the bottom is soft mud and there are submerged roots. The local kids will happily point out bird nests in the mangroves.