Weekend in Madurai

Dazzling 17th-century temple complex in the city centre, covered in thousands of colourful carvings of gods, goddesses and mythical creatures. The main sanctuary is free, though ph

Tip: Enter through the east gopuram (tower) around 5am for the 'palli arai' ceremony when the deities are woken up with devotional music. Carry socks — the stone floors get scorching by midday.

One of Madurai's oldest temples (9th century) dedicated to Vishnu, with a distinct Tamil-Dravidian gopuram and a peaceful, uncrowded atmosphere. The inner corridor has some lovely

Tip: Ask the priest at the main sanctum to show you the hidden 10th-century stone inscription on the south wall — most visitors miss it. Dress respectfully (shoulders and knees covered). No photography inside the inner sanctum.

Huge rectangular temple tank built in the 1640s, the size of four football pitches. It's especially photogenic in the early mornings when locals bathe and perform rituals on the small island temple in

Tip: Come during the January float festival (Teppam) when the temple idol is paraded on a raft lit with hundreds of oil lamps — it's free and spectacular. The rest of the year the water level is low but the pigeons make good photo subjects.

Grand 17th-century palace complex with a huge courtyard, ornate stucco arches and an echoing audience hall. The main hall alone is worth the small entry fee — it's 80 columns high. Take a free guide f

Tip: Skip the sound-and-light show if you're short on time; the palace is most impressive in early morning light when the shadows are long. Entry is 50 INR for Indians, 300 INR for foreigners.

Compact museum in the Gandhi Memorial Museum complex with exhibits on the city's history, traditional jewellery, bronze sculptures and a surprisingly good coin collection. The building itself is a coo

Tip: Combine with the adjacent Gandhi Museum (free) where you can see the blood-stained cloth Gandhi wore when he was assassinated. Entry is 10 INR. Photography allowed in the courtyard but not inside the galleries.