Weekend in Lucca

12th-century Romanesque church on the former Roman forum. Four-tiered facade with marble intarsia and a striking archangel statue.

Tip: Check for free organ recitals Saturday afternoons. The Pisan-style exterior is best seen in morning light.

An oval plaza built into the remains of a Roman amphitheatre. The medieval buildings follow the original arena's footprint. Sit in the sun and watch the world go by.

Tip: Avoid the overpriced cafés in the square. Instead, grab a panino from Alimentari Puccini one street away and eat it on the steps near the southern edge.

A Pisan-Romanesque church on the site of the Roman forum. Its four-tier facade is topped by a statue of the archangel Michael. Inside, look for Filippino Lippi's 15th-century altarpiece.

Tip: The church is free, but the small museum (€2) gives access to the rooftop terrace for a close look at the facade's marble intarsia. Visit early to avoid tour groups.

An elliptical piazza built on the remains of a 2nd-century Roman amphitheatre. Surrounded by cafes and shops, it retains the original oval shape and four entrance arches.

Tip: Walk to the centre and look up—the irregular roofline follows the original amphitheatre seating. Free to enter, but no seating inside; grab a coffee at Caffè di Simo for a view.

Romanesque cathedral from the 11th century with a striking asymmetric facade. Inside, see the Volto Santo crucifix and Tintoretto's Last Supper. Free entry to the main nave.

Tip: The free section covers the main church. Pay €3 for the treasury and sacristy to see the gorgeous wooden choir stalls and 14th-century frescoes.

A 12th-century church with a striking Romanesque facade and a towering golden mosaic. Inside, the 13th-century font by Guido Bigarelli is a highlight.

Tip: Visit late afternoon when the sun slants through the west window, lighting up the mosaic. Free entry, but check for occasional concerts (€5–€10) in the crypt.

A Romanesque church with a striking 13th-century mosaic on its façade. Inside, the 12th-century marble baptismal font and Romanesque columns are worth a close look.

Tip: Head to the back of the nave to see the restored fresco of the Last Judgement—it's often missed by tourists but is one of the best in Tuscany.

A small, peaceful garden founded in 1820 with a collection of medicinal plants, a pond, and a greenhouse of tropical species. It rarely gets crowded.

Tip: Free entry on the first Sunday of the month. Otherwise, it's €4, but if you're on a budget, the free public park on the walls (Parco delle Mura) is just as green and costs nothing.

A former Renaissance villa now housing a museum of Lucchese art and archaeology. Collections include Roman marble, medieval sculpture, and paintings from the 12th to 18th centuries

Tip: Free entry on the first Sunday of each month. Even if not interested in art, walk through the gardens for lovely views of the city walls.

4km ring of intact 16th-century walls now a public park. Walk or cycle the top for city views and shade.

Tip: Rent a bike from Cicli Bizzarri near Porta Elisa for €3/hr. Go early morning to avoid midday heat.