Weekend in Kirklareli

A warren of narrow streets with traditional wooden houses, some restored, some crumbling. Offers a glimpse of 19th-century Balkan-Ottoman domestic architecture.

Tip: Free. Walk up from the square past the old hamam. Look for the houses with blue or green painted shutters. The best light for photos is late afternoon.

Restored birthplace of Ali Rıza Efendi, father of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. Small museum with period furniture and personal effects. Grounds have a small garden and statue.

Tip: Free entry. It's often quiet. Staff might offer to turn on a short documentary in Turkish. The house is modest but gives context to Atatürk's family origins.

The main square and pedestrianised shopping street in the city centre. Surrounded by late Ottoman-era buildings, with cafes and benches. Good people-watching spot.

Tip: Free. The square fills up in early evening when families come out. Grab a simit from the vendor near the clock tower for 5 TL.

Imposing 19th-century stone building that served as a Greek Orthodox school for girls. Now partly used as a cultural centre. You can view the exterior and courtyard for free.

Tip: Exterior free; interior only open during exhibitions. Ask at the municipal tourism office (next to the museum) about current openings. Best seen from the side street for its full facade.

Small city museum with archaeological finds from the region, including Thracian, Roman and Byzantine artefacts. Covers local history and ethnography in two floors.

Tip: Entrance is 5 TL (roughly 15p). Go on a weekday morning to have the place mostly to yourself. The garden has some nice stone sarcophagi.