Weekend in Corfu

The largest square in the Balkans, a long grassy esplanade flanked by the Liston arcade and the Old Fortress. Locals play cricket here and kids kick footballs. Benches under trees

Tip: If you're visiting on a Sunday morning, you'll see a cricket match—Corfu is the only place in Greece where the sport is played regularly. Buy a cheese pie from a nearby bakery and sit by the Maitland Rotunda.

A small, ornate 16th-century church dedicated to the patron saint of Corfu. Inside, the ceiling is frescoed, the iconostasis is gold, and the saint's silver reliquary is kept in a

Tip: Go just before 5pm if you want to hear the local women crowd in for the evening litany. Dress modestly—shoulders and knees covered. The reliquary can be kissed after the service if you follow the queue.

A scenic viewpoint at the tip of a peninsula, with a view of the Vlacherna Monastery on its island and Mouse Island beyond. The water is ridiculously clear. Walk down the steep road for closer photos.

Tip: Skip the cable car tourist train and walk from the end of the bus line (green bus from San Rocco Square, 1.50 euros). For a swim, take the little boat from the pier below the monastery to Vido Island—free if you swim across from the mainland (200m).

A massive Venetian fortress on an eastern promontory of the old town. You climb up ramparts with views of the sea and rooftops, and explore barracks, a prison, and a chapel.

Tip: Bring water and wear sturdy shoes—there are many steep steps and no shade. Entry costs 6 euros (2024), but the permanent archaeological exhibition inside is included.

A well-lit modern hall in the old town, housing the stunning Archaic pediment from the Temple of Artemis (ca 580 BC)—a massive stone relief of Medusa flanked by winged lions. Also has Corinthian potte

Tip: Entry is 4 euros, but free on the first Sunday of each month (November to March). The museum is small—you can do it properly in 45 minutes. Combine it with a walk through the nearby Anemomylos neighborhood for a coffee stop.