Weekend in Bikaner

No specific address — explore the narrow lanes around Kote Gate and ask shop owners for rooftop access. Many family-run sweet shops or spice sellers will let you climb up for a pan

Tip: Best at sunset. Try the gatte ki sabzi at a side stall first; it's a local lentil dish and costs around 30 rupees. The view from the rooftop of the Shri Gopalji sweet shop is particularly good — buy a samosa to be polite.

The grounds of a former palace (now a heritage hotel) are open to the public free of charge. You cannot enter the hotel, but you can walk the gardens and see the red sandstone faca

Tip: Visit late afternoon for the best light on the facade and a chance to see peacocks in the garden. The hotel's lawn is not open, but the perimeter path is fine.

A royal cremation ground with about 20 sandstone cenotaphs, some intricately carved. Peaceful and off the tourist radar. No entry fee, and the guards are usually happy to chat about local history.

Tip: Combine this with a visit to the nearby Bhandasar Jain Temple which is free and has colourful frescoes. Carry water; no shops nearby.

A dry deciduous forest and lake area about 30km out of town. Entry is free, but small charges apply for a boat ride or camera. Good for spotting chinkara, desert foxes, and migrating birds in winter.

Tip: Go at sunrise with a packed breakfast; the park opens early and wildlife is most active. Avoid the overpriced tea stalls near the gate.

A 16th-century fort with ornate palaces and courtyards, untouched by Mughal influence. Entry fee is modest for Indians and slightly higher for foreigners, but the complex itself is free to walk around

Tip: Skip the audio guide; pick up a printed map at the ticket counter and explore the quieter south-east ramparts for the best views without crowds.