Weekend in Baden-Baden

A 19th-century colonnaded hall with a free drinking fountain of thermal water. The building is decorated with frescoes of Black Forest legends.

Tip: The water tastes strongly of mineral salts and is warm (around 68°C). Bring a small cup or bottle from home, as the paper cups are tiny. Drink it slowly.

A 2.3 km landscaped park along the Oos river, planted with exotic trees and flowers. Benches line the paths; the air smells of damp earth and leaves.

Tip: Enter from the south end near Gönneranlage to avoid the tourist crowd at the casino end. Go early morning when mist hangs over the river.

A thermal bath complex dating to the 19th century. The outdoor pools, saunas, and steam rooms are paid, but you can enter the lobby and view the historic interior tiles and Roman-inspired mosaics for

Tip: Stand on the footbridge over the Oos river just outside – you get a clear, free view of the steam rising from the outdoor pools. No need for a ticket.

A network of cobbled lanes around the Marktplatz, with timber-framed houses, a daily fruit and vegetable market (except Sunday), and a gothic parish church. Free to wander.

Tip: Buy a bag of local Black Forest apples from the market stall run by the farmers' cooperative – about 2 euros for a kilo. The market runs until 1pm.

A contemporary art museum in a classicist villa, with rotating exhibitions of international artists. The entry fee is 7 euros, with free admission on the first Saturday of each month.

Tip: Go on a free Saturday but arrive by 11am to avoid the queue. The small museum shop stocks affordable art prints and postcards.