Weekend in Alcamo

Alcamo's cathedral, rebuilt in the 17th century after an earthquake. Inside, check the wooden crucifix from 1490 and the massive organ.

Tip: The crypt under the altar is open only at 10:30am on Saturdays — ask the sacristan, who's usually by the donation box near the main door.

A Baroque church from 1723 with a striking painted ceiling and inlaid marble altars. Quiet and often empty.

Tip: Step into the side chapel on the left — there's a small fresco fragment uncovered during restoration that shows the original gold leaf.

A crumbling 14th-century castle with sweeping views over Alcamo and the Gulf of Castellammare. You can walk through the courtyard and climb the main tower for free.

Tip: Go late afternoon — the light on the stone is gorgeous and there's usually a breeze. The tower door has no sign; it's just to the left of the main arch.

Small modern art museum in a former convent, showing rotating exhibitions of Sicilian and Italian artists. Free entry on the first Sunday of each month.

Tip: Even if you're not into contemporary art, climb to the roof terrace — it's open during exhibitions and gives a rare view across the rooftops to the sea.

The main square with a stone fountain, a few benches, and a view of the cathedral. Local men play cards here in the afternoons.

Tip: Buy a granita from Bar Roma across the street (€1.50) and sit on the steps of the cathedral — you'll get the best people-watching and the sun won't hit you.