Weekend in Aflao

A bustling open-air market packed with stalls selling cloth, spices, soap, cheap electronics and street food. The smell of smoked fish and groundnut stew mixes with exhaust from tr

Tip: Look for woven Ewe kente strips sold by women near the fabric section. They're genuine and half the price of Accra. Go before 10am when it's less crowded.

A long stretch of sandy shore along the Gulf of Guinea, good for walks and watching fishing boats. The water is rough for swimming, but the sea breeze is constant and the sunsets a

Tip: Go early morning (6-7am) when fishermen haul in their catch. You can buy fresh fish directly from them for cheap. Bring a hat and water.

The main border crossing between Ghana and Togo. It's functional, not scenic, but watching the non-stop pedestrian and vehicle traffic gives a real sense of the regional trade flow. Colourful hawkers

Tip: Don't take photos of the actual border post (it can cause trouble with officials). Instead, stand 50 metres back and get shots of the market stalls and crowds. Best light is late afternoon.

A shallow lagoon on the eastern edge of town, fringed by reeds and mangroves. Good spot for birdwatching without binoculars—you'll see egrets, herons and sometimes kingfishers. The walking path along

Tip: Take the track by the Catholic church, then turn left at the water tower. Stop at the wooden bridge—it's the prime viewing point. Don't swim: the water is brackish and has some bilharzia risk.

A low hill covered in coconut palms just outside town. It's a short, easy climb (about 15 minutes) that gives a broad vista over Aflao's tin roofs, the lagoon and the Togo coastline in the distance. F

Tip: The path starts behind the old cemetery on the Keta Road. Wear trainers because the dirt can be loose. Best at sunrise to avoid the heat and get the cleanest views.